October seems to be our month for big adventures. Last year it was our Flagstaff to Sedona run and this year we tackled the Rim to Rim. Sherry had completed one prior rim to rim 6 years ago in blazing hot temperatures which meant side trips off the main trail were not going to happen and Katie knew this might be a one-time bucket list adventure so our primary goal with the hike was to enjoy the beauty of the Canyon and see everything we could possibly cram into a one day crossing.
So none of our girl adventures would be complete without at least one "Katieism", and Katie did not disappoint. We started our trip by driving to the south rim and then taking the shuttle to the north rim. We had to search for a parking spot and finally found one some distance from the shuttle pick-up point. I told Katie to write down where we parked and leave it in the truck to which she replied "okay". Hmmm. So she carefully writes it down, tears if off and starts to place it on the seat of the truck when she finally figured out that wasn't going to do us much good. So, off to a normal start :-)
Who wouldn't love that face?!
Meet Katie! And the two became fast friends. We looked all around and only saw "No smoking" signs until we walked further down and saw a "Do not pet the mules" sign.
It is so easy to smile and look clean and fresh when the adventure is still awaiting you.
We estimated that the effort ahead of us was going to be worth at least two cheat days, maybe three. So we decided to get a head start and indulge in some pre-hike fueling at the south rim.
Arrived at the North Rim just in time to run out to see the sunset and survey the challenge that we would be taking on in the morning.
Pictures never quite live up to what the naked eye takes in. Truly amazing!
The day started with a 4:00 am alarm and after putting our big girl panties on we were ready to head out the door at 4:52 and face the Canyon. Oh, funny story from the night before. So we have finally checked in, gone to the deli to pick up sandwiches and M &Ms (remember, cheat day) to take to our room and by now it is completely dark and our hotel room is as far away from the main lodge as possible. We are moving as fast as we can in the dark with our packs and dinner and directions when a man approaches us from the opposite direction and asks if we are in room 429. When we say yes, he says it is going to be a bit uncomfortable with the 3 of us in one bed. Sure is! Seems the hotel overbooked the room and called him to tell him two ladies would be showing up at his door. That is not the kind of hotel we thought we were booking. Anyways, got it all straightened out after another "warm-up" hike in the dark.
Into the darkness and Canyon we go!
Just like a little sister, we weren't 30 minutes into the hike before Katie asked, "Where's the first bathroom?" Um... "we are in the wilderness so anywhere is fine" didn't cut it for her. As you can see, she is aglow with happiness after making our first pit stop.
Through Supai tunnel...
... and into growing daylight.
First of many bridges. Guess who got to test it first?
So many picture perfect places to stop, and we couldn't bypass this one.
Many of you know that Katie is the queen of dry heaving, but apparently not all bathrooms are equally maintained and this one was bad enough to make even me want to lose my just ingested, apple and power bar breakfast.
As soon as the trail leveled off enough that we didn't think we would do a fatal header over the edge we decided to go for a run. Our packs were a little heavy for trail running but we are always up for a challenge!
When we got to the trail turnoff leading to Ribbon Falls we heard people debating whether or not they should take the detour. One woman remarked that you could see it from the trail so why bother. She missed the most spectacular sight on the entire rim to rim trek. As usual the picture just doesn't show the true beauty of the falls. The domed rock appeared to be mostly hollow and the moss that looks primarily brown in the photo was a shimmering vibrant green.
We could have spent an entire day here but we knew we had most of our hike ahead of us so we had to settle for a short layover.
We took the shuttle driver's advice and took the "short cut" though the bushes and across the creek to get back to the North Kaibab trail. As for crossing the creek, Katie tells me to go first. So I am carefully using my hiking poles and trying to find stepping stones that aren't too slippery when I sense something else moving off to my side. I look over and Katie is standing in the middle of the creek. When I asked her what she was doing she said that seemed easier. Thanks, Katie. Once we were back on the main trail we were off and running once again. For someone who whined for the first three years of her running life, Katie sure likes to run like the wind going downhill. I needed a tailwind just to try to keep her in sight.
We didn't ask questions but we did take pictures.
"Troubled person" on a bridge over muddy waters. The river looked more like chocolate fondue.
Once you cross the river it is mostly uphill.
Lots and lots and lots of sand.
Always yield to the mules. They left plenty of little care packages along the trail.
Yet another beautiful resting point.
Down the hills, over the rocks, through the sand and creeks, and up the canyon we go. Both the shoes and the tender feet on the inside took quite a beating.
What seems like 3 days ago instead of just the wee dark hours of the morning, somewhere on the other side of that canyon, we descended into the darkness and the depths of the canyon to finally emerge on the other side with sore feet and stomachs that are rebelling at the idea of anymore electrolytes or energy bars.
Still able to force a smile in spite of the effort and fatigue.
Thinking of a rim to rim hike? October is the month to go as there is a generous amount of shade compared to my previous crossing in May when the sun was higher and the temps at Phantom Ranch reached 111 degrees.
Just like the "Don't pet the mules" sign, we didn't see the "Don't attempt to hike to the river and back in one day" sign until we were almost to the top at the south rim.
Success! 27.5 miles (but who's counting?)
A night's rest (not so good when every centimeter of your body aches when you move and the sheets hurt your toes) does wonders for your outlook. Another funny hotel story. So we are WAY TOO TIRED to go out to eat but we NEED FOOD. Katie tells me to go ahead and shower and she will call to get a pizza delivered. First problem: I come out of the shower in my pajamas ready to sit in bed and eat pizza and Katie tells me they don't deliver so I am going to have to go get the pizza. I put some extra clothes on over my pajamas and go get the pizza. Second problem: As I drive up to the hotel I see Katie walking down the sidewalk in her pajamas to go get ice. I get out of the truck and she says, "You will never guess what just happened!". Of course I guessed. The hotel overbooked our room and someone came to the door trying to get in while I was gone. So we go back to our room with the pizza and ice and you will never guess what happened. Neither of our keys would work!. So I go to the front desk to get our keys re-keyed. Simon is not very helpful and is hung up on wanting to know who checked me into the room. I don't often lose my temper but poor Simon got to hear my rant that "I am exhausted from hiking all day, my friend is standing out in the cold in her pajamas, our pizza is getting cold, I don't know who checked me in but this mess is your fault so just GIVE ME MY KEY!!!!!"
This one's for you Jackie! Told you we had plenty of time to think of new exercises on the hike. Tree push ups coming your way sometime soon!
Video of beautiful and peaceful Ribbon Falls
Was it hard? Yes. Was it worth it? Yes! A rim to rim hike in one day is not recommended as it is at least a 21 mile hike if you take the South Kaibab Trail as opposed to the Bright Angel Trail. It is a steep and strenuous climb out of the canyon and it comes at the end of the hike as opposed to the beginning. But there are many ways to enjoy the inner beauty of the Canyon with shorter day hikes or by camping overnight. Viewing the Canyon from the rim is certainly "grand", but there is so much more to see if you are willing to put your hiking shoes on and exert some effort. I can hardly wait to see what next October's adventure will be. Seriously. I think.
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